Wine Pairing for Chinese Food by xiaodi zhang at 09/18/2008

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Pairing the right wine with your Chinese meal can be tricky. Given the various cuisines, it's also difficult to know which wine is best suited with which regional cuisine. I have consulted with a couple of my friends at Yangjiu.com, China's first high-end wine website, for their expert advice. They have generously prepared a series of wine-related guides.  In this first guide, they have provided the following recommendations on how to select wine for your Chinese meals.

First, it’s important to note that when choosing wine to accompany, say, Chinese food, it’s preferable to adhere to some basic rules. Note though that there is neither “dogma” nor “ideal” pairing, except the one you like best.

Basically, there are two main different approaches of pairing food and wine. One is by similarity, the other one is by contrast. By “similarity”, one means the heavier the food, the heavier the wine should be. For example, one possible pairing with spicy Szechuan dishes could be a very tannic Bordeaux or Languedoc red wine, so that the astringency of the tannins can match the spice of the food. An Australian Shiraz (red wine) with spicy aromas can also be an option. Similarity also means the lighter the food, the lighter the wine. Thus, why not try a Gewurztraminer or a Sauvignon Blanc with Cantonese dim sums. The Asian fruits aromas of the Gewurztraminer (above all lychee) often brings experts to consider it a good pairing with Chinese food.

Contrast is another option, especially when it comes to pairing wine with spicy food. Consequently, Rieslings, Gewurztraminers or even sweet wines (like Muscat Baumes de Venise for example) can also offer a good match to Hunan or Szechuan food. In the same way, you can try a rather heavy (but not spicy) Beijing duck with a light Burgundy Pinot Noir. When eating a number of different regional dishes, (but only wish to include one bottle of wine), the versatility of a Chardonnay can be a good option to cover the wide variety of flavours.

Here are some specific recommendations based on regional cuisine:

• Dim Sum: Gewurztraminer (white)

• Shanghainese Food (sweer and sour): Muscat Baumes de Venise (sweet) or Chardonnay (white)

• Sichuan or Hunan Food (spicy): Gewurztraminer (white), French Languedoc Red wine (like Saint-Chinian or Corbieres) or Muscat Baumes de Venise (sweet wine)

• Northern Food (starchy): Champagne or Sparkling (Cremant, Prosecco or Cava). Chardonnay can also work.

• Beijing Duck: Pinot Noir or Chardonnay.

One World, One Dream, One Giant Fence by xiaodi zhang at 08/14/2008

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Unlike my local Shanghai friends, I braved the crowds, the terrorists and pollution to attend the Olympics in Beijing! I just got back, and I dont regret my decision at all. The volleyball and tennis matches I attended were amazing, and I loved exploring new/old parts of Beijing which have been either under construction or renovation in the last two years.

At the same time, we took comfort in seeing all the security check points and security guards at the Games. Given what happened to the US volleyball coach's father-in-law, we were happy to see everyone taking security so seriously. We were subjected to multiple checks at the airport, random checks at any public space, and multiple checks at the venues. We saw the rationale behind all the security measure, until we tried to visit the Olympic Greens with our Olympic tickets.

Even though we had volleyball and tennis tickets, we found out that only those with tickets to venues physically located on the Olympic Greens could enter the communal Olympic Greens area. This rule sprung up out of nowhere, since the official Olympic guidebooks specifically says all Olympic ticket holders can check out the Greens. At the same time, this particular rule appeared to change every minute, since each guard told us conflicting versions of that rule.

After an exasperating argument with several guards, we finally pushed our way into the Olympic Green (after nearly coming to blows with the guard pictured), only to find ourselves practically alone. Given its sheer size, the Beijing's Olympic Green would have been difficult to fill even without all the rules and restrictions. After the new rules, the area felt deserted. We saw as many volunteers and journalists as spectators. The mood was noticably mellow. It didn't feel festive or Olympic at all. Granted the Bird's Nest and Water Cube were amazing to see, but it was still from outside the confines of yet another fence.

On our way out of the Olympic Green, we were not greeted by the five Fuwa, the Olympic mascots, or Olympians. Instead, we walked by more guards and a tank. In its effort to block out terrorists and dissidents, Olympic organizers in BJ have effectively blocked out thousands of passionate fans and dampened the Olympic spirit.
Apparantly, Olympic sponsors have also noticed the small crowds and have applied financial pressure on BJ. So, BJ will start issuing day passes soon. Unfortunately, money speaks louder than disgrutled fans.

What Not to Do in Beijing by xiaodi zhang at 07/30/2008

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With less than fourteen days to the Olympics, it seems like everyone is publishing guides on Beijing. While I love the interactive maps, great photos, and well-organized information, I am cringing at all the overrated places everyone is recommending over and over again.

So, here is my list of “un-recommended” places in Beijing. If you only have a few days in Beijing during the Olympics, do not waste your time, energy, meals or money on these destinations. There are more places that my local Beijing friends would add to this list, but here are the absolute all-time overrated places. Avoid them if you can.

Badaling Great Wall:  You absolutely need to go see the Great Wall, but just dont see it at Badaling! When I first went to Badaling ten years ago, it was already overrun by tourists and knick-knack stands selling everything from Mao pins to “I Climbed Badaling” tshirts. Imagine how crowded it is today. You don’t really climb the wall as much as your push your way through the crowds. If you sign up for a Great Wall tour, be sure to specify that you DO NOT want to go to Badaling. Otherwise, they will always take you there by default, since it is the closest and therefore the cheapest for the tour company.

Le Quai: The description of Le Quai could not sound more intriguing: a two-story traditional house transported from Anhui province and rebuilt inside a modern glass house in Beijing. The design did not disappoint at all. Le Quai is beautiful to look at, both inside and outside the restaurant. However, the food is a total after-thought in this restaurant. The “French-Asian-Fusion” thing just doesn’t work, and it is incredibly expensive. We ordered the one dish that every Beijing restaurant should get right (otherwise, don’t put it on the menu), Zha Jiang Mien, and it was impossible to imagine a worse version of this classic dish. Do not waste a meal at this restaurant. Go for drinks or tea, or just get a tour.

Li Qun Duck Restaurant: Yes, Al Gore has been here, but that doesn’t mean Al Gore knows good duck. We first heard about Li Qun in a Starwood Travel special (that should have tipped us off, but it was very well-made). The small hutong restaurant seemed like a hidden gem. When we got there and saw a long line of foreign tourists outside the restaurant, we began to worry about our decision. When we saw a tourist picking apart the duck skin and throwing it away, we knew we were really in trouble. This restaurant no longer caters to locals. It caters to people who don’t know that the best part of a Peking duck is the skin! Enough said. Have you duck at Made in China, or at the original Da Dong (only the original location though).

Grand Hyatt: It seems a little harsh to include such a landmark hotel on this list. But after a couple of recent visits, I feel the Grand Hyatt has lost its luster. The service has become shoddy, and the rooms feel too small compared to comparable hotels. In fact, a lot of high-end hotels have opened recently in Beijing. Rates are competitive, service has improved, and rooms are better and better. Grand Hyatt is no longer *the* luxury hotel in Beijing. Try the Westin instead.

Hou Hai: Hou Hai used to be the most peaceful and romantic area in Beijing. A favorite gathering place for local residents, you would find retirees playing Chinese Chess, poker or practicing qigong at sunset not more than six years ago. That was before the bars and clubs targeting expats took over and turned Hou Hai into a loud, obnoxious eye-sore at night. Walking around Hou Hai at sunset today, you will be accosted by countless bartenders trying to pull you into their bars to check out the “live music”. It’s a truly sad scene, especially if you have experienced Hou Hai in the past.

Silk Market/Pearl Market: While the two markets sell completely different types of products, one selling knockoffs and the other selling “pearls”, the experience is pretty similar. You will be confronted with endless rows of booths and stalls selling identical items at practically identical prices. The vendors will be yelling at you at every language imaginable, and they will try to pull you into their stalls. If that sounds like fun, then these markets are the places to go. But don’t think you are getting great deals. The products are that cheap for a reason. Speaking from personal experience, that LV purse is not made out of real leather, the Cartier watch will stop in a month, and those pretty coral necklaces will leave a nice red stain on your neck.

The Orchard: Touted as “rustic” and “charming”, the Orchard is known for its weekend brunch and use of organic herbs and vegetables. In theory, it should be wonderful. In reality, the Orchard is located nearly 1.5 hours outside of town, and taxi drivers have a hard time finding it. The food is nice, but its comparable to the brunch you can find back home in Texas (actually not as good as that). If you only have a few days in Beijing, don’t spend four hours on mediocre brunch.

China Club: Renovated prince’s palace: check, exclusive membership club: check, boutique hotel: check. China Club seems to have all the ingredients for an amazing hutong restaurant. Unfortunately, the management company neglected to hire a good chef. The club restaurant is overpriced and underwhelming. This is a place for business dinners on expense accounts.

Hangzhou Food Guide by xiaodi zhang at 07/21/2008

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When I first came to Shanghai, I was surprised by how sweet, oily and heavy the local Shanghainese food tasted. Shanghainese food is a close cousin to Hangzhou food, which is sweet but very light and delicate. Most restaurants I have tried in Hangzhou outshine those in Shanghai, and my favorite restaurant in China is also located in Hangzhou. Here are some of the most famous Hangzhou dishes, and some recommendations for where to try them.

Dongpo Pork: Named after a famous poet who was also appointed governor of Hangzhou twice, Dongpo pork is a very fatty piece of pork that is slowly cooked with wine and lots of sugar. While this dish might not look appetizing, a square of very fatty pork served with the pork fat and the skin in tact, this dish is so delicate and tender that you won’t have too much time to fixate on its presentation. Also, all of my local girlfriends proclaim that it’s good for their skin, which makes ordering pork fat easier to justify.

Beggar’s Chicken: This dish will not win any prizes for presentation either. It is typically served still encased in a layer of dried mud. Contrary to how it might look, the chicken is actually very juicy because it is soaked in Shaoxing wine (a sweet rice wine), baked with fried pork, and wrapped with lotus leaves. When served, the clay is smashed on your table for effect, which will release a very strong fragrance of lotus leaves and ginger. Be warned though, don’t order this dish for two people, even though every server in Hangzhou will try to sell it to you. There’s just no way you can finish it.

Sweet and Sour Carp: Probably the simplest dish, but also one of the tastiest, this is traditionally prepared with a West Lake grass carp. The fish is simply boiled for three minutes, and then a sugar and vinegar sauce is poured over it. The fish tastes so delicate that it tastes similar to crabmeat. Just be cautious of the bones that can accompany this and most fish dishes in China.

Shrimp with Dragon Well Tea: Aside from great fresh-water seafood, Hangzhou is also famous for its Dragon Well tea. For this dish, shelled fresh-water shrimp and Dragon Well tea leaves are cooked together. The aroma of the green tea serves as a great balance to the gaminess of the shrimp. The color contrast is also beautiful.

West Lake Water Shield Soup: this is the only dish that that I don’t “love” in Hangzhou. Although very unique and distinctive in its lack of taste, the soup is, well, not very tasty. However, it is very light, and a very healthy balance to rich Hangzhou meals. The soup is prepared with the West Lake Water Shield (a plant that grows in West Lake) and minced chicken slices. This is one dish that you can only find in Hangzhou, and it is quite refreshing. When not cooked properly, though it can taste a little slimy.

Restaurant Recommendations:
Crystal Garden: My all-time favorite. The food there is always fresh, delicate and perfectly balanced. Every dish is perfect, but I highly recommend its house specials, which are arguably better than the Hangzhou classics.

Louwailou: To taste the classics, you can't go wrong with this restaurant nestled inside the West Lake grounds. Albeit the service can be testy, its well-known for a reason.

TaiKang Lu Shopping, aka Tian Zi Fang (田子房） by xiaodi zhang at 06/23/2008

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I first discovered the neighborhood around TaiKang Lu, Sinan Lu, when I first moved to Shanghai three years ago. I asked a local friend where I could find a laid-back neighborhood, away from the tourists and bars, a place with interesting shops and cafes. To my delight, she introduced me to Tian Zi Fang.

The entrance to Tian Zi Fang is located on Taikang Lu, halfway between Sinan Lu and Ruijing Lu. If you drive too fast, you will miss it. Flanked by a pottery studio and a boutique, the entrance is not particularly eye-catching. As you walk through the entrance， however, you will start to notice this alley is no ordinary expat hangout.

Immediately, I noticed there were hardly anyone else in the alley. I passed a couple of mediocre art galleries, and a few jewelry boutiques. So far, I wasn't impressed by what I saw, but I was already happy to be away from the crowds. As I walked forther into the alley, I discovered a small quartyard, filled with empty tables for a cafe, and a handful of shops. That's where I discovered Jo ma Arts, which is where I would find too many beautiful things. 

At that time, three years ago, that was basically the extent of Tian Zi Fang, a handful of galleries, boutiques and a cafe. One of the things that made it unique was the fact that all of this was nestled inside a traditional Shanghainese nonghang, which is equivalent to the Beijing hutongs. Built around 1920s, these Shanghainese neighborhoods are known for their tight living quarters, narrow alleys, and traces of art deco architecture and influence.

How quickly things have changed in three years! If you go to Tian Zi Fang today, you will no longer enjoy peace and tranquility. Instead of a handful of cafes and shops, you will find at least ten cafes alone, and five times the number of boutiques.

While it can feel a little too crowded, most of the changes are welcomed. Instead of a short stroll in an alley, you can stay in Tian Zi Fang all day, walking from restaurant to shop to cafe to restaurant. Also, this is probably the only place in Shanghai where the locals hang out with expats side-by-side. Grandmas and grandpas come out to chit chat outside of cafes, while expats sip on expensive coffee inside the cafe.

You might wonder if the local residents mind if the cafes and shops have taken over their neighborhood. In fact, it was the local resident board that started this craze in the first place. Around two years ago, the local residents joined together and started renting out their apartments to investors. They got a lot more from the investors than they would from the market, so more and more started renting our their apartments. As a result, I find new shops every time I go back to Tian Zi Fang, which is almost every week.

If you want to check out a place where expats go when they get tired of XinTianDi, go check out Tian Zi Fang!

Weekend in Shanghai for Jetsetters by xiaodi zhang at 06/03/2008

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A couple of friends visited Shanghai over Memorial Weekend. They were motivated by a frequent flyer special and flew non-stop from Chicago to stay only for the weekend. The idea of flying all the way around the world just for a weekend seemed incredulous to me, but they pulled it off. So, this blog is dedicated to them and other like-minded jetsetters who have no qualms about taking 11 hour flights for a weekend in Shanghai.

Please note these recommendations are not for everyone. They are for the well-traveled business class regulars who prefer 5-star hotels over hostels, incredible interior design over a hole-in-the-wall, and a rare find over a tourist spot.

Day 0:

• You traveled so far for only two nights, you might as well treat yourself to the best bed in town. If spetacular view is your thing, go w/ the Grand Hyatt. If you want to be next to the nightlife and can stand the noise, try Xintiandi's boutique hotel, 88 Xintiandi. If conservative comfort is more your thing, try JW Marriott.

• Brunch is best served French. If you are able to get out of bed at a reasonable hour, take a cab over the French Concession for the best bread/butter/cheese in town at Franck. While it doesnt serve traditional brunch food, Franck's entrees and salads more than make up for it. The location is also perfect for getting a taste of life in the French Concession (for very well-to-do expats).

• Trinkets that you wont find in Chinatown. Shanghai would not be Shanghai without a healthy dose of shopping. Its also nice to buy gifts for the poor blokes back home who weren't able to fly to a different continent for the weekend. My favorites are Spin for beautiful ceramics, and Taikanglu (Tian Zi Fang) for everything from cashmere scarves to tibetan jewelry. Be warned, everything is over-priced, but then you are paying for the most charming atmosphere in Shanghai.

• Dinner theater, Shanghai style. Get a taste of Shanghainese food along with a favorite Shanghainese pastime activity, listening to Chinese opera. Check out Xian Qiang Fang for all of the above and beautiful decore (restored art deco building filled with chinese antiques). Remember to bring your camera and sneak a few pictures during the performance (dont ask for permission).

• If you are still able to stand, check out the local jazz scene at  JZ Club for great local and international jazz.

• Its all about the dumplings! You cannot come to Shanghai without eating at least one XiaoLongBao (aka xlb's), or 20, which is what usually happens. These legendary dumplings are best experienced at DinTaiFung at XinTianDi.

• Time for the Bund! Traditionally, the best time to check out the Bund is at night, but I actually prefer the day. Start out on the West side of the Bund. Several buildings have great views. My personal favorite is the historic and unpretentious Peace Hotel. After you explore the West side, take a cab to the Pudong side. If you are not staying at the Grand Hyatt, you have to check out the hotel atrium. Grab a cup of coffee and admire the amazing architecture, not to mention the view.

• Time for some R&R. All that food, shopping, and walking can be exhausting. Time for a traditional Chinese foot massage! 90 Minutes seem like a long time for a foot massage, but you wont feel that way after. The most popular is still Taipan on Dagu Lu.

• Upscale Chinese food that needs to be franchised globally. Check out the famous South Beauty franchise, not only for its great food (not necessarily by local standards), and jaw-dropping decor (not always a good thing), but also to check out why this is one of the most profitable business franchises in China. The owner has demonstrated that street food can be turned into gourmet under the right design and lighting.

• Sleep is for the flight back. You cant come to Shanghai and leave without experiencing its famous (or infamouse depending on where you go) night scene. The conventional options are XinTianDi, Hengshan Lu and Fuxing Park. If you want a taste of where local expats like to go, check out Muse.

What happened to that restaurant? by xiaodi zhang at 03/10/2008

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Yesterday, I organized brunch with a couple of friends at a cozy cafe on Jianguo Lu. At noon, when my boyfriend and I showed up at the location, we couldnt find the restaurant! We found instead, a high-end Australian restaurant! Too late to change plans, we ended up having brunch there instead and, luckily, it was pretty good.

The crazy thing is that this was the 2nd time this happened to me in the last couple of weeks. Restaurants seem to be opening and closing in Shanghai faster than ever. I have found the victims are often smaller, cozier, more intimate places.

The pace of change in Shanghai is truly amazing. While some venus are closing, there's just as many new restaurants, clubs, and shops opening up all the time. A perfect example is the shopping area that has sprouted around Taikang Lu 210 Nong.

Two and a half years ago, there were ~10 samll shops located in Taikang Lu 210 Nong. Converted from an old residential area, the shops were very small and featured a lot of indepent designers. It was one of my favorite places to spend an afternoon, just walking around and grabbing a cup of coffee w/ friends.

Fast forward a couple of years, and there are now over 30 small shops in this area. A dozen cafes have popped up alone, and a ton of small shops have opened up, selling everything from Tibetan art to cashmere sweaters.

I am totally thrilled by this change and find myself going to Taikang Lu almost every weekend.

I just hope that my fovorite shops stay open long enough for me to feature them on HopStix!

In search of the best dumplings in Shanghai... (part 1) by Allen Liu at 02/05/2008

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Shanghai is a city known for a special type of dumplings called xiao long bao. The direct translation is small steamed bun, but its a much more delicate type of bun than the typical steamed buns that you might find from a street vendor on the side of the road. And they are quite tasty... :)

Having lived in Shanghai for 2 years now, I'm always in search of the BEST xiao long bao in Shanghai. So over the next few weeks I'm going to be reviewing some of the best dumplings Shanghai has to offer... Of course I do have my incumbent favorite Din Tai Fung, so that will serve as the reference standard for which we compare these different dumpling providers. More details and in-depth dumpling reviews to follow. Stay tuned...!

I've already got a few places in mind, however if you have any suggestions, please feel free to mention it in the comments or send me a message. I'll make sure to include it in my dumpling reviews...

Here is a glimpse of the tiny soup dumplings from Din Tai Fung.  (they are usually sold out of this type of dumpling in their LA store) Xiao long bao reviews and pics to follow soon...

Beijing Street Food – At what price would you eat a scorpion? by Allen Liu at 01/17/2008

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Would you eat a scorpion on a stick? This is inevitably the question that always comes up whenever we visit the Beijing street food market.

Off a side street from Wangfujing street is a row of red lanterns and food stalls that light up the night. It’s pretty hard to miss when you see it. This is a great place to get a glimpse and possibly a taste of some of Beijing’s ‘finest’ street food. As you walk along the 50 something stalls all lined up next to each other, you’ll see the full spectrum of street foods that Beijing has to offer…

The various food stands offer quite a wide variety, from a bowl of noodles for the more conservative food taster, to starfish and sea urchin for the more adventurous, and even scorpions and centipedes for the really daring. We were in Beijing a few weeks ago with a friend visiting from the US. As we were walking along the stands, we stopped in front of the scorpion-on-a-stick stand and dared each other to eat a scorpion-on-a-stick. Ultimately that turned into an ongoing discussion about ‘At what price would you eat a scorpion-on-a-stick?’

So opening that question up to the online world… ‘At what price would you eat a scorpion-on-a-stick?’ Or better yet, if you’ve already had one… how was it?


   
Yum...


The beijing street food market at night


Scorpions on a stick


The scorpion street vendor standing proud...

Art of Ordering Chinese Food Part 2: Sichuan Food by xiaodi zhang at 01/16/2008

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Famous for its mouth-watering, sweat-inducing, tongue-numbing flavors, Sichuan food is possibly the most popular regional food in China. Located in Southwest China, Sichuan is the most populous province in China and its climate is famously humid. As a result, the spiciness of the cuisine is much needed for releasing "inner heat", basically having a good sweat w/ each meal.

The famous ingredient or infamous depending on who you talk to, in Sichuan cuisine is the Sichuan Peppercorn, or Fagara. This is the defining ingredient in Sichuan cuisine and causes a numbing sensation on your tongue. Combined with chilly peppers, it’s a totally unique culinary experience worth trying out for anyone.

I do not recommend Sichuan food for your first meal in China though, because it is known to cause stomach problems for unsuspecting pallets. Instead, I highly recommend reserving Sichuan food toward the end of your trip, after you have adjusted to Chinese food and your stomach has toughened up a little.

You can find the following dishes at any Sichuan restaurant. The most well-known Sichuan restaurant chain in expat community is South Beauty. The setting is always nice, but the food will not be entirely authentic.

• MaPoDouFu (Pockmarked Tofu): the English translation is less than appetizing, aka Pockmarked Tofu! Sounds terrible, but its quite delicious. This dish famously features a lot of the numbing peppercorns and a lot of spicy chilies! So, be careful. Also, some restaurants tend to add too much oil, so I usually ask for less oil.

• ShuiZhuYu (Water Boiled Fish): The title is completely deceiving. The first time I ordered this, I thought it would literally be water-boiled-fish. It turns out its more like hot-oil-boiled-fish! If cooked correctly, the fish will not taste oily. Not as spicy and numbing, its one of the easier dishes to eat. Its now one of my favorites.

• LaZiJiDing (Chicken with Chilly Peppers): When you see this dish, you might freak out at how spicy it looks. But dont be alarmed, it’s actually not that spicy. The chicken is fried and then stir-fried w/ dried chilly peppers, which is not as deadly as the fresh kind.

• DanDanMien (Dan Dan Noodles): This is one of those foods typically more delicious at a low-end restaurant than a high-end one. The noodles are famous for a spicy-peanut sauce. The combination is delicious, and I typically salivate for more even though my mouth is completely numb from the spices